The Study Group consisted of 11 Catholic Priests, 2 Anglican Priests, and 1 British Nun who had been serving in France. What a fun group to be with! They are from all over the world--Ireland, England, Scotland and France with a few from the US. We have shared in evening prayers with them and I found it to be a rich experience worshipping together and praying for the needs of the world. They were so kind in praying for my Mother during her hospitalization. We all set off last Monday and spent the morning with a representative from Al Haq, a Palestinian Human Rights Group, who gave us a tour of the Old City of Hebron, walked us through the streets, led us to the Mosque that covers the cave graves of Patriarchs Abraham and Sarah, Jacob and Leah, and Issac and Rebekkah. Many ultra-orthodox Jews live in the area and come to pray outside the mosque in a special area and the Muslims go inside. There were soldiers located in strategic places and we went through several checkpoints. This is a very volatile area and tensions run high between these groups. We felt very safe and seeing it firsthand helps me to understand how difficult and complex the situation is. This is a very strategic site for both Muslims and Jews.
After our tour and hearing children behind the walls in school playing and studying, we headed up the hill (lots of standing and walking that day) to a Palestinian home for lunch with a family that lives right across the street from Jewish settlers. They were very welcoming and served us huge mounds of saffron flavored rice with chicken on two huge platters. They gave us bowls to fill and then yogurt is spread over the top of this dish. Very tasty. We all sat on their sofas and were entertained by their children coming home from school--we met four of the five. All the time we were there they were Skyping with their relatives in Jordan and wanted different ones from the group to speak to their relatives. They had several cats and the children brought out four baby kittens for us to admire. I was grateful for the opportunity to be in a Palestinian home and to meet a family. They had pictures of their ancestors on their walls (just like we do) and explained about their family to us. Their house overlooks one of the streets in the Old City of Hebron and on the roof the laundry is hung out.
After lunch we drove through the modern city of Hebron--I believe well over 100,000 people--to a glass factory where we watched a glassblower shaping vases and, of course, the opportunity to buy some lovely Hebron glass--one of their top sellers. We were served small glasses of delicious hot tea as we walked around the store.
The soldiers we encountered were such young men--18 to 20 years old. Israeli young men serve in the military right after high school for three years active duty then they move to reserve status for 20 years or more. Women serve for two years right after high school. There were several women soldiers helping check as we went into the Mosque. Even though I was dressed appropriately for the Mosque, as a woman, I still had to put on a gray robe with a hood. Larry said I looked like a monk and I felt like the hunchback of Notre Dame as I had my backpack on my back and underneath the robe. The rugs and wall coverings in the Mosque are beautiful. The women can pray off to the side when the men are in the room but on certain days when it is crowded the women are moved to another room separate from the men. We all took off our shoes and walked on these lovely carpets as we toured the area.
As I viewed Hebron and listened to our tour guide, my heart was heavy as I saw firsthand the deep distrust and both sides claiming this holy site as their own. The military are there to protect the settlers and to keep the groups from fighting with each other. They have lived this way since 1967. This experience reminded me to pray again, and more intensely, for both Jews and Muslims and that somehow there would be a peaceful resolution to this complex situation filled with so much intransigence. We were all touched by what we saw and prayers are often uttered here for God's peace to come and reign over this Land. Here are a few photos from that memorable day.
The area between the buildings leads to the Mosque--the building on the right housed a gift shop and restaurant and the buildings on the left were Muslim homes.
The little "cabin," as the tour guide called it, is a checkpoint. Everyone has to walk through the cabin to get to the other side for shopping, visiting the mosque, or visiting family and friends.
The Mosque. This is the side the Israelis can pray at.
Inside the Mosque.
Another view inside the Mosque.
Our chicken and rice.
Our Palestinian hosts and one of their sons.
One last note. Larry presented a lecture on the Apostle Peter to the Study Group here and received a very positive response. They were engaged in good discussion and Larry has been invited to give the same lecture next week to a new Study Group that will be joining us--with some of the members arriving from Australia. Israel is a magnet to the curious, the religious, and the sincere pilgrim.
I am so grateful to have the opportunity to meet people from all over the globe.
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